WHAT I SAW: VERONA
Verona’s largest church and one of the city’s finest examples of Gothic architecture. Doesn’t overwhelm with grandeur but rather draws you in with extraordinary craftsmanship, and soft light. I went to check it off my “must go” list but I lingered longer because of the extraordinary frescoes.
A tip: if its crowded, snap the image and then back at your hotel later, zoom in and curate crops of the up close details you love best but you never could get close enough to…it’s a wonderful way to discover!
One of the most beautiful and better preserved examples of Romanesque architecture in the whole of Northern Italy.
Even if you’re not usually drawn to churches, San Zeno is worth the visit for its remarkable craftsmanship, quiet atmosphere, and connection to nearly a thousand years of Verona’s history. I much preferred here the St George and the Drago fresco than the famed one at Sant’Anatasia.
I also love the bichrome masonry or “alternanza di fasce” : the alternating bands of warm verona limestone and brick that seem to stripe the church from one end to the other for an unexpectedly jaunty vibe that became a signature style in Verona…
And don’t miss the iconic bronze doors!
At first, we just didn’t know if we could squeeze in another stop on an already crowded day, but as soon as we heard about Museo di Castelvecchio, we made time.
Carlo Scarpa’s groundbreaking modern intervention transforms a medieval fortress into something entirely unexpected—precise, poetic, and deeply architectural.
The way sculpture, painting, and fragments of the original structure are displayed feels almost choreographed, guiding you through space rather than simply exhibiting objects.
It’s a masterclass in restraint and detail, where every junction, material, and sightline feels intentionally composed.
