WHAT I ATE: VERONA

Verona’s oldest and most celebrated restaurant dating to 1890. Beautiful old-world interiors with dark wood, vaulted rooms and the cozy atmosphere of a classic Veronese wine tavern.


Here is where you try the renowned Veronese Risotto all’Amarone.A deep, velvety risotto made with the city’s signature Amarone wine, which gives it a rich, almost black cherry depth and a luxurious finish.
It doesn’t look like much. But wait until you taste it!
By the way, one of my most favorite New Yorker articles ever was on the history of risotto and they mentioned this as the best of.
After dinner they kindly led us down to peek at their extraordinary wine cellar with more than 40,000 bottles.

We slipped into Osteria Il Bertoldo during a rain shower at lunch time.



The cheerful red room feels unpretentious and quietly full of locals who clearly know exactly why they’re there. The cooking is rooted in tradition, but everything arrives with a sense of ease and generosity that makes you linger longer than planned.
The Tortino di Zucchina con Fonduta al Monte is a menu must: a delicate zucchini-based starter, served warm with a rich Monte Veronese cheese fondue. A kind of flan. It was so good. I ordered it twice!

Perched on the terrace and suspended over the Adige river with storybook views of the Ponte Pietra. I don’t remember what I ordered: I was too dazzled by the setting.




Waiting for dessert, I descended to film the outstretched lower level, seemingly carved right into the riverbank: all stone and shadow and atmosphere, like a secret space hidden under the city: