WHAT I SAW: ROME
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Nestled within the grand Villa Borghese which itself sits within the larger Borghese Gardens (rent a bike while there to explore its many paths offering scenic views, fountains and people-watching) the Galleria Borghese merits a first time and hundredth time visit.
They are always staging compelling special exhibits so see what’s there before your trip and be sure to book tickets! Don’t risk them selling out the day your visit unfolds.
On our first visit we saw a show whereby, the 17th century Bernini baroque masterpieces seemed to come even more alive when juxtaposed with the contemporary fantasy of British artist Damien Hirst.
The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
Walking up its wide steps that in bold typography proclaim “TIME IS OUT OF JOINT” is like a refreshing dip in a cold plunge after gracing so many of Rome’s dusty doorways of ancient times. Housed in a 17th century monastery it boasts neoclassical period all the way to the abstract works of the 1960s. (It opened in 1883!)
I love to go to their downstairs Cafe Delle Arti for a cappuccino after and sip and sit amongst the elegant ladies from the nearby Parolini neighborhood.
I always pop in here after a trip to the Campo De Fiore market. It always offering a unique show (see my Along the Way chapter) and its intimate size makes for an efficient time commitment. (I’d rather be fast and see everything!)
Check out their cute sliver of an outdoor cafe which peaks onto the charming Piazza San Pantaleo.
Go for the art but even more, the two star staircases! The helical in the front entrance and the almost hidden grand square one.
Renowned but usually-empty absolute jewel of a museum in a grand Roman palazzo. The masterpieces here stun as do the Versailles-like rooms, but the lesser known works: giant oil paintings almost casually crammed up and down along the hallway’s walls make you feel like you’re visiting some eccentric aristocratic with impeccable taste. Their frescoed ceiling seems to reflect and extend to the heavens and beyond.
Humbly housed at one end of the Campo de Fiori, the 1930’s- opened Farnese is like a character in a Wes Anderson movie about an art house cinema. It has velvet seats and boasts classics and independents. I almost never go to the movies anymore except when here.
A food market bustling with locals tourists offering seasonal vegetables, fruits, spices, meats and trinkets I stroll its aisles even if I’m not buying anything. At the end towards the cinema is a fresh juice stand run by Kahn. He’ll pour wonderful custom connections for me - ginger, pomegranate, mango - that I sip while I walk back to hotel.
At the end towards the cinema is a fresh juice stand run by Kahn. He’ll pour wonderful custom connections for me - ginger, pomegranate, mango - that I sip while I walk back to hotel.
