WHERE I WAS: TOKYO'S NEIGHBORHOODS
Tokyo is a city of villages, each with its own rhythm so explore them all. Together they form a patchwork that feels endlessly new, even after many visits.
You could probably do two a day depending on their proximity. But this is how to explore many neighborhoods, vibe by vibe.
SHINJUKU is vibrant and fast-paced with polished pockets…
What I Saw: Shinjuku
Yayoi Kusama Museum was founded by the avant-garde artist Yayoi Kusama and is devoted to celebrating her art. Tickets ahead a must!
Where I Ate/Bought: Shinjuku
Isetan Shinjuju Department Store
Best food hall in all of Japan on level B1 & B2: we spent almost two hours here just gazing at all the different foods and preparations!
The Japanese adore strawberries and showcase them in endless ways!:
Golden Gai
Six narrow alleys lined with 200 tiny bars - each no bigger than a living room - offer an unforgettable late night or after dinner experience.
Omide Yokocho/Memory Lane
Lantern-lit alleys packed with small eateries, especially yakitori (grilled chicken) and small noodle shops.
You can’t make a reservations for any of them: instead you hover next to one you want and wait for people to vacate their stools. The whole scene buzzes alive with tourists and locals alike. It's like walking into a time capsule in post war Tokyo.
ROPPONGI HILLS
What I Saw: Roppongi
Huge, architecturally striking space of wave-like glass curtain wall facade, featuring constantly changing exhibits. The building merits a visit alone.
Design museum founded by Issey Miyake. I saw an incredible show there on ramen noodle bowl design.
Where I Ate: Roppongi
We always make a pilgrimage to Hinokizaka, the incredible sushi bar at the top of the Ritz Carlton hotel with its sweeping skyline views.
DAIKANYAMA
Daikanyama feels like Tokyo’s answer to Brooklyn, with a quirky, quiet charm that could be lifted from a Wes Anderson film.
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Log Road, is a kind of mini High Line perched above Daikanyama-dori : an elevated green walkway built on old railway tracks. Explore up there too!
Where I Ate: Daikanyama
Tucked below ground, this vibe-y speakeasy, minimalist bar offers creative cocktails: get the muscat with rose ice cubes!
A special cozy spot for A level omakase tucked away on a side street. You walk in and you are in the hands of true pros.
It’s an entire building of 3 little stories but mighty with coffee. You order on the ground floor then walk up the winding outside staircase: they roast on 2nd floor from imported beans around the world and the “culture floor” is on the 3rd floor, looking out on the street below.
The best grilled chicken with curry my beloved has had anywhere. (And that’s saying a lot.) Small, but super cool interior space. Sit at counter to watch him cook or on the outside stools facing in.
What I Bought / What I Ate: Daikanyama
Exquisite and unique vintage: from Japanese embroidered robes from China to 1960s designer jackets from France, all lovingly curated by a super cool couple who clearly walk the walk!
Best dog toys, clothes and food to take back home to your fur baby!
Massage therapist and shiatsu. Ryo is so thorough and thoughtful and I love how his face glows with positivity. And his homemade morning tea blend! (I love so much I carry on my Susanna Salk Style site.
Shinsakabashi Books
Address: 18-10 Daikanyamacho, Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0034, Japan
Their buyer/manager has fabulous literary taste. Design, travel, food and philosophy, all in Japanese but that makes for fun gifts! I found my favorite rather obscure children’s book “Time of Wonder” there: how had they heard of it?
And their darling tote bag…
AOYAMA/OMOTESANDO
Aoyama/omotesando feels like Tokyo’s couture runways turned into streets. The Japanese tend to dress in black, white or beige but the panache is always found in the whimsical cut or twist.
The posh people watching is almost upstaged by the architecture of store buildings: TOD’S, Prada, Coach, Boss…don’t forget to always look up!
But the side streets teem with action too: wonderful little boutiques and cafes and more fab people. So be sure to take detours in search of more creative energy. It’s endless.
(Skip Cat Street: waaaay too touristy.)
What I Saw: Aoyama/Omotesando
Pre modern Japanese and East Asian art with an extensive traditional Japanese garden right in central Tokyo.
What I Ate: Aoyama/Omotesando
Japan, 〒107-0061 Tokyo, Minato City, Kita-Aoyama, 3 Chome
Down a charming side street offering AMAZING rice bowls, delicate and delectable herbal tea I still think about and matcha tiramisu.
Koffee Mameya
4 Chome-15-3 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo
The minimalist entrance is almost as cool as the coffee they prepare and present. Don’t miss.
I know it can feel like a forced Instagram moment but the striking black latte drinks are for real and next level photo worthy!
What I Bought: Omotesando
Ball and Chain
Address: 3 Chome-6-19 Kita-Aoyama, Minato City, Tokyo 107-0061, Japan
The must have embroidered eco bag right now. At about $35 makes for ideal gift to bring home. Super fun kitschy designs make it so hard to choose. Buy more for you and your friends and family than you think!
GINZA... glows with polished big brand shopping and sleek architecture.
What I Bought: Ginza
Luxury shopping destination hosting over 200 brands with restaurants. Rooftop garden. On 6th floor, visit Ginza Tsutaya Books: a massive art bookstore with over 60,000 titles.
Timeless kabuki tradition worth going just to see the graceful crowd bending their heads in unison at intermission while they ate their bento boxes.
Truth be told we left after that but what we saw was more than enough to give us a sense of this art form’s old world tradition.
MARUNOUCHI is polished with leafy streets and chic shops, it feels a little like walking through London.
What I Saw: Marunouchi
A gem of a museum in a 1894 Western-style building by a British architect. With its proximity to an elegantly landscaped brick park plaza with refined cafes and shops, it’s a perfect arts stop.
What I Bought: Marunouchi
I can’t even describe the stunning almost Shaker-like displays in this sliver of a boutique. They carry Ted Muhling jewelry, folk art, flowers….
Where I Ate: Marunouchi
My beloved's eyes lit up when he saw there was a Joel Robuchon bakery IN JAPAN! and we immediately headed there as if to the mothership.
My favorite thing is how seriously the Japanese take the rain: look how lovingly they sealed off our one to-go pastry as if it was a precious jewel…
KURAMAE
Over the past ten years, Kuramae has emerged as one of Tokyo’s coolest creative hubs. There are dozens of independent design-shops, artisan workshops and curated boutiques along its main streets and alleys. A perfect morning or entire afternoon exploring!
What I Bought: Kuramae
Handcrafted leather goods being fashioned in a workshop by an artisan sporting the best man bun I’ve ever seen. Bespoke orders accepted.
Specializing in clothes crafted from natural plant dyeing. We bought a lovely spun gold scarf. Workshops offered in adjacent studio.
Japanese brand of delightful skincare and cosmetics. You can make an appointment to blend your own fragrance. The adorable technicians will guide you. Only takes about 45 minutes.
Follow the unassuming sidewalk street sign up some warehouse building stairs…to this sparse yet highly curated room displaying handmade pottery, tableware even jewelry from contemporary, young craftsman. A unique experience! We bought a blue sake cup for our collection. On Saturdays there were lines down the stairs as they only let a certain amount of people in at a time.
A shop only selling decorative tape? I wasn’t going to miss this! Suffice to say, we have now have more decorative tape than possibly anyone in America. But it makes a lovely touch when you wrap a gift. Buyer beware of going down this refreshing rabbit hole!
A fun home good store that offers kitchen gadgets that you never thought you needed (avocado scooper?) but now suddenly MUST have. My beloved also found a wonderful pocket handkerchief and immediately wore it out as the staff clapped with this consenting delight.
This retro-style shop offers ceramics, glassware and wooden tableware. Curated for “usefulness, texture and feel.” We wanted everything but settled on 3 tiered serving stands that were as unique as they will be useful on our cheese board displays.
Where I Ate: Kuramae:
Has the respectful pageantry of a vintage Parisian bakery fashioning scones, cakes, cookies.
A minuscule but mighty “chai and bake” stop. We got a divine homemade strawberry and fig smoothie.
How were we going to resist getting a coffee at what appeared to be an all-women run roastery that cheerfully served you through an elegant black window as you waited out on the sidewalk? Your allowed coffee-per-day total in Tokyo will increase.
Yes you can buy a leather wallet here but…OMG the homemade cheesecake!
HIROO
International, upscale vibe here as near embassies. Stylish streets and cafes. Feels like Upper East side at school pick up time, except in Japan you will see young kids walking home unaccompanied. It’s that safe here.
What I Bought: Hiroo
Amarphie Sur Mer
5 Chome-15-23 Minamiazabu, Minato City, Tokyo 106-0047, Japan
Phone: +81 3-5795-2842
I first stumbled upon this little clothing boutique by circumstance, had to find it by memory on my second trip and now go there like a homing pigeon.
It has unique yet wearable clothing, whimsical pieces you don’t see anywhere else. I have bought two of the brand’s trademark cinched dresses...
Be prepared for people to stop you and ask you where you got it. One woman sailed in to the store when I was there wearing it over a t-shirt and jeans.
Every time I go there, interesting, English-speaking Japanese women stop by and for a moment, we’re all trying on clothes in this tiny shop, cheerfully overseen by its delightful manager, with barely a dressing room, like we’ve been friends all our lives.
Where I Ate: Hiroo
Great place to work/recharge and people watch. Always Americans who live abroad hang here sprinkled amongst Japanese. Super efficient & kind staff.
A wonderful tiny Italian restaurant down a charming side street .
Because sometimes you just need some burrata! But look at how the Japanese do it:
JINBOCHO
Tokyo’s “Book Town” offers blocks and blocks filled with booksellers outside along the sidewalk and in stores, where many are crammed floor to ceiling with rare, vintage and academic treasures. Don’t go in a hurry.
What I Bought: Jinbocho
Some vintage Japanese postcards from one of the many vendors outside. Great to tuck in mirrors or use as gift cards!
Fantastic photo/art/fashion book store with fabulous vintage posters right in heart of this area.
Ohya Shobo Co
1 Chome-1 Kanda Jinbocho, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 101-0051
Manuscripts from the Edo period, ancient maps…a treasure trove.
Where I Ate: Jinbocho
Glitch Coffee
101-0054 Tokyo, Chiyoda City, Kanda Nishikicho, 3 Chome
Once we tried it, we went every day. I was addicted to their blueberry and cotton candy roast they do on site. No joke I could taste the berries.
They meticulously take you through all their coffees that they roast if it's your first time, so there’s often a line. And they play great 70s music on their record player.
Your rich latte is served in a perfect black mug by a hip barista wearing black. I was in heaven.
UENO
Ueno Is Tokyo’s cultural heart, home to grand museums, leafy park paths (pink during cherry blossom season) and a lingering sense of old school charm.
What I Saw: Ueno
The National Museum of Western Art
Easy to buy your tickets ahead. Japan’s only museum dedicated to Western art. I saw a fantastic show when I was there on interiors featured in Impressionism. Fascinating!
The oldest national art museum in Japan.
Known for major temporary exhibits of Japanese and international modern art. Not the prettiest building but worth seeing what’s on here.
ELSEWHERE NOT TO BE MISSED
If Dr. Seuss had a shaved ice dessert cafe. Impossibly airy hand-shaved ice become silky clouds infused with artful layerings.
Reservations A MUST. It’s only just a few counter seats.
Kappabashi Street or Kitchen Town is a shopping street lined dozens of stores selling everything needed by restaurant operators, with the exception of fresh food. Dishes, pots, pans, cooking utensils but go for the plastic and wax food samples, used by many restaurants in their show windows.
